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Surface dwellers without depth in the surf

July 7, 2016
Paddled out in the ocean. There are about fifteen or twenty surf class students out there, and several foamies, and tons of replaceable people I’ve never seen before.
But I’m out here to get strong.
A friend Robbie said to me, “All these people who I don’t know and don’t know me but they all know each other.”
“They have to–talking to themselves about themselves shows to themselves they belong, and they don’t.”
I just paddle and ignore it all trying to get stronger for surgery. Then somne low-to-the-sea-level weasel with a day-old man bun on his head, keeps doing everything possible to paddle around me to gte in position for any possible outsidre wave. Wherver I go, he follows, trying to get to my left. Buty no waves are coming, so he goes inside and does the same thing to other people, scamming waves and surfing badly.
I get a nice set wave, thread between two guys trying to burn me, and stuff, them, then a student in a class on the inside doesn;t look, paddles and nearly plows into me.
I say nothing and paddle back out.
All I have is this ocean to get stronger, and I have no time for the surface dwellers. zI’m looiking for depth to surf, and they’re just catching waves but not surfing and looking around at the others like thwm who woo and don’t know any better, which is what they live for.
But not me.

 

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