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Score one for the good guy: Me!

February 24, 2016
They’re maneuvering again,
I don’t know them, but I know what they’re up to.
There’s a bald guy on a blue board paddling to my left, who snaked me on a wave. There’s a guy who just paddled out next to me and is but scanning the horizon and ready to take off on the next wave. There’s a guy on the inside who angled inside of my on the last wave, and I had a choice to run him over or back-off. I backed off. And here they are again, all reassembling into the same pattern. Now here comes the guys who shout out greetings to each other, and act like they’re buddies. And the ones who talk the loudest are the ones who get qwuiet when a wave comes to take it from whoever they were talking nicely to, or really anyone.
Just because they have a second home, or recently retired, or started school, or just moved here, suddenly makes them acceptable–but only to each other. And none of them can surf, but they know every way to steal a wave.
I say nothing to any of them. I just paddle and smirk when they try to adjust themselves to where I go. Ther guy insider paddles further out to angle me opff a potential wave. The guy who is no longer on my left, paddles to get to my left, And I smile and ignore them. The the guy who just paddled out paddles next to me.
It’s so nice to be a role model for the clueless. I wonder if this how these guys drive, play chess, work?
I noticed them, but tune them out. Let the black butter of their own karma melt into the souls. I want no part of them.
The guy tro my left goes for a wave. I act like I”m going rto go and turn. He paddles. The guy insde angles across, And the third guy paddles alongside of me.
I stop, kowing there is a great wave behind ity, and I furiously paddle out and spin around.
The three guys miss the wave, and turn to see me dropping into the wave of the dayt. A cool zipping shoulder high, perfectly shaped. Where I can make three cutbacks and trim all the way into shore. No one is in my way.
I was so stoked! My head throbbing and smiling I try to make a run on the shallow shoulder up high. It dumps. And I got under my board. Bounce on ther bottom and come up laughing.
Two guys I know are watching from the cliff and one shouts, “Gracveful.”
The other says, “That was a great wave.”
I don’t bother going back out.
It wasn;lt going to get any better than that.
The good guy scores on the bad guys.
I come in stoked and talk to guys I’ve known for years on a beautiful day. And the three guys come in, without stoke, talking about their “workout,” and how the “ocean is good for my abs.”
One looks at me.
I turn my back, acting like I’m looking for something in my car.
Keep going, whatever you are.


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