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SUrfing and say nothing–except to one fuckhead

October 7, 2015
Out in the water. Pull up, There’s Ed Guzman’s stupid van. And he’t out there polluting the surf spot to fill up the point break of his bank account., I’m changing and he comes by with a woman, who I’ve met before (Obviously, he’s coaching her for a special amount of money.). She’s a nice lady and says, “Hi Frred!” I ignore Ed but he says hello and I reply the same. He knows what he is. I’m just a paper clip on his desk. There’s a poiint where the money is all people see, and it numbs them. Then when either they lose it or have enough, the drug wears off and no one’s around but them. There are people who just consume.
 
I paddle out. This world was almost taken away from me, and I know this water and these wave, shape and fill me. I don;t talk to people. They can smile, but I only speak if they they surf politely. WHo cares about what the p[lace once was. You have to adapt to the the land of whatever, making perceptive reference points to the land time forgot.
 
There’s this chipmunk-chuckled head woman who has this irritating laughing, and she paddles arounf and acts friendly and then scams waves, or paddles around people. And she is horrible at surfing, and the reason some people stay horrible at surfing is no one likes them enough to tell them what they’re doing wrong.
 
I’m sitting outside. A wave is coming. Then I see Chuckle-head chipmunk paddling from insider to the outside and way to my left. And I know she’s going to try to take off in the fom behind me and try to cut me off on the wave.
 
And guess what’s NOT GOIN TO HAPPEN, sports fans.
 
I taker off, make my turn and there’s her board.
 
“Whoa! she says,
 
I drive her off the wave. She falls I continue. She knows. I’ve seen her before. She yaks to another clueless person like herself. And I ignore her and him and paddle back out. Smiling and enjoying the stoke.
 
Later, another guy does the same thing. He’s more aggressiver, so he cuts into to me, and neither one of us can kick out. We go flying. He foesn;t have a leash. His board goes in. AT first I was going to helpo him, But I saw someone had the board. He gave me a dirt look. I said nothing. If he was out there without a leash and couldn’t turn his board or hang onto it, he should have a leash.
 
He paddles back out and sarcastically says,” No problem.”
 
I’m sitting outside, I shrug.
 
“What did I do to piss you off?” he asks.
 
I shurg, and say,”Nothing.”
 
I wanted to say, “Look it was a set wave, I was outside, I was on it, then you caught it on the inside and tried to angle me off it, but because you couldn;t turn you collided with me. But it was my wave.”
 
I say nothing.
 
I caught some waves and had a great time. On my last wave, a guy burned me, but I had enough room to have a good time, but he sopped up some of the gravy opn my plate. He was a stocky guy on a green foam board who could only angle across the wave. I get cuahgt inside some backwash, cant; kick out. So grab my board, and roll about a little. He finishes his ride and looks back.
 
He looks back. He knows he was in my way.
 
I look at him and say nothing.
 
Then a guy is coming in on a wave, clearly a beginner, barely in control of his board. He’s angling in front of me.And I anticipate he’s going to jump off his board. After all he might get hurt by it in the backwash, so who cares if it hits anyone else. Like jumping out of your car before you do a head-on anbd somehow say it’s not your fault because you weren’t behind the wheel
 
And he does. I push away the board nearly takes me out.
 
“Hey, hold on to you board! You almost took off my fucking head! I know you’re a beginner, but hold onto you board, you can hurt people.”
 
I smile and paddle in. I had a good time. The guy who burned me was going up the steps. He turned to look back at me, I turned and looked away. He is parked in front of me and talking to his friends and smiling about how he’s surfing and they’re smiling and looking at him and thinking he’s so cool.
 
And more clueless people come with their foam boards.

 

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