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The never ends, if you do it right

July 29, 2015

A set wave was coming through. Well overhead. I was the furthest oner out. I started paddling.I’ve been working out in the gym on my legs to overcome neuropathy and to achieve better balance. I’ve been playing golf to improve my hands. All this has been working, and it’s also improved my surfing and just getting through the day. I’ve tried to change what wasn’t working into other strategies.

Well here comes the wave, The biggest wave so far I’m going to have to spring up quickly.

“Go Fred!” shots a guy, clawing up the wave’s face, hioping there’s one behind it/

The wave sucks out but I’ve turned up and cut high across it then slam a turn back, generate some speed and shoot across its rising and curving wall. It’s cutting hollow and might closer, so I drop down a little deeper and drive into the reform! And cutback high back into it.

I’m smiling and there are guys paddling out aS I shoot around and across, smiling, and my eyes are glowing a stoke and I’m smiling and laughing. I struggled so hard to get back to surfing and my life after cancer. I was weak and crawled on the board and could hardly carry it. Mhy friends helped me get uyp and down the stairs and watched out for me in the water, And they offered support and encouragment and compliments. And I’ve also found that through this the most difficult thing after surviving cancer is surviving life. I mean how many people want to hire a guy who is sixty? (One guy who used me for some writing work, turned me down for more work because he thought I was in my forties, which is nice, but my age counted against me.). I offered to work at hospitals to help cancer patients (Oh, sure, they would let me volunteer, but pay me. No.). Too bad, but I felt most hospitals don’t want to remind people they’re alive–0they’d rather have them passive and obedient.So I wrote a book to help them, and speak to other groups to share how I fought. I decided to simply be the best Fred I could be, and continued to write, and pursue stand-up, and follow my passions, whether it’s wine or surfing, and see where that takes me.

And there’s the wave I’m–and that’s the wave I’m riding.

When I came in, my friends were on a bench and said, “Fred, you had a great wave. Looking real good out there.”

I thought, sitting among them. I’m still on it–with them, the sun, the ocean, the future, and I’m grateful.

That’s what surfing is–you never kick out, if you do it right.

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