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Stoke a Boka!

July 28, 2015

I was sitting on the driver’s sider inside my car with the door open, and my feet on the street, changing out of my wetsuit,

“Fred, you did something out there that made me laugh,” said a guy who surfs the spot a lot, a nice guy in his twenties with glazed eyes who does gardening work.

“What did I do that made you laugh?”

“Well, you were on this wave and celebrating. It was a big wave.”

“Yeah, I had made this bottom turn and cut back into the pocket, and I was getting all of the wave, and jazzed, and shaking my fist and all charged. I mean there are people out there now that just look at the wave as an amusement park ride, like the place is a waterside. They don’t get the extra thing. The stoke, that other thin in the pocket/”

And that wave was cool. There were a couple guys consistently trying to paddle to my left and get the wave, but I ignored them, and they were taking their cues in the lineup from where I was sitting. A few wouldnt start paddling for the wave until I did, then I’d see them spin around after I passed them. They are the empties. I spotted the slight purplish bruised bulge in the distance, slightly lifting the kelp, and new a larger wave was behind the first couple waves ion the set. I acted like I was going to for. The dweebs started paddling. I stopped., turned and paddled like crazy for the outside. And there is came, rising with a slight curl, and as I paddled the flat ocean became a slight slant, and I slide inot it and the wall came up and I shot across it.

“Yeah!”

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