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Doing the CT Strut

May 17, 2015

 

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I keep my fingers crossed to stay humble.

I never thought of myself as a cancer survivor, The raccoon going through my trash is a survivor. I have been LIBERATED from myself and choose to LIBERATE others trying to fight cancer.

I wore m,y  Aussie hat to show cancer I lived up to my vow to go to Australia. When I was getting my scan, a technician had a copy of my book Today Cancer Tomorrow The WorldBut I have to stay humble. I crossed my fingers in the CT Scan,

The day after I saw my oncologist, I went to surf. It was windy and didn’t look like it was much, but man, after yesterday, I wanted to give it a go. And I scored on some nice wavers. And this was all where I wanted to be. Then I take off on a wave, and some middle-aged guy who certainly knew better, took off in front of me, then fell off his board, and then I fell. I just stared at him and said nothing. I just wanted to be in the water surfing. I didn’t want to get mad at anybody. And I thought anyone who does something like that doesn’t deserve the right to ruin my stoke or day. It’s on him (*Plus, I made a note he wasn’t going toi ever get a wave from me again, ha!) and then I caught a nice ride. I’ve been struggling to overcome neuropathy in myt feet by woking out in a gym, and for the first time, I was walking to the nose of the board, which has been hard for me. But I was doing it! Jazzed. Then when I paddled back out I looked out along the coastline as it wrapped toward Monterey and saw the Santa Cruz Mountains rolling behind it. Ah, what a life. So glad to be here, so glad to be here. And this is all where I wanted to be.

 

I think the hardest thing about doing a cancer follow-up is the distance one has travelled from your diagnosis, and how much life was returned to you. And the fear of cancer’s return, taking you back through the battleground where you crawl under chemo’s barb wire, and away from a life you value more than you ever realized and the people you love–well, I sit there on the rocks, my surfboard lying on the sand, and so glad for the life I have in California, I just start crying with a smile of wonder against the horror. And, I scored some great waves today too!

Got whomped and triumphed. But anxiously waited for the results.

Run to the sun! Feel that throbbing within you to connect to the rising pulse of the world! Don’t let anyone take it away from you, man. An live up to it!

 

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