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Oh yeah, like I’m the idiot at my surf spot.

November 6, 2014

Ready for another surf story?
It’s my birthday. I’m jazzed to be surfing all day and primed to hang and watch the sunset. Okay, I score on a the best set way of the day. And because of nerve damage to my feet that I’m trying to overcome, I’ve been struggling to achieve my balance to walk to nose, and slowly getting through it.

So I’m getting to the nose and streaking across the wall of a great way, and this girl/woman sees me coming down the line, and keeps paddling for the wave, and I’m saying, “No, no!” And see goes anyway, ruins tthe wall and the ride and stays in front of me. I say, “That’s fucking rude.” And she keeps going, eventually, she falls, loose her board, I avoid it and finish what’s left =over of the wave.

I paddle back out, someone compliments me on the wave, and I say, “I would have had a great wave if that stupid woman over there didn’t burn me.”

Then she starts mouthing off at me saying she didn’t nothing wrong. And she has this smug, condescending smile on her face, as if amused that anyone would take riding waves seriously because she did nothing wrong. Again her definition.

I say, “You saw me on the set wave, I said not to drop in, and you dropped in on me anyway. You don’t do that. And you looked at me the whole time. You knew what you were doing.”

“This is supposed to be fun,” she says, again holding that stupid smile.

“Don’t look at me with that stupid smile on your face. Fun huh? It’s funm on what you want for yourself. Here;s an idea of fun, how about letting me take the wave so I can have fun. But my fun doesn’t count does it. And wipe that stupid smile off your face you fucking idiot.”

“My just learning, this is my first day out here.”

“Well, IU’m not hearing ‘I made a mistake’. Or ‘I’m sorry.’ It’s all about what you want at someone else expense and wipe that stupid fucking smile off your wave. When you drive a car do you just pull out in front of someone and–”

Then a pudgy middle-age yuppie starts to defend her and says, “Don’t you feel stupid yelling at someone like that?”

A guy I’ve never seen before. Who had probably only surfed for two years and has a home office in Santa Cruz, or whatever he is. Someone who should marry this girl so they can have Starbucks children, work in an office their wholes live, and die as bad reruns. In fact, that’s who these people are. After surfing so long, what I’m, seeing are the children of the idiots who couldn’t surf, so their basis of the sport has nothing to do with the culture, it’s all about living in an artea and everything is a park for their pleasure where untalented people like them can get along with each other. But the one thing these people never experience at work: no one calls them on their behavior.

“Hey you don’t burn people on waves. ANd who are you a lawyer?”

He shakes his head and flashes the same stupid smile and says, “You should feel like an idiot acting like this .” SHaking his head in his land-based security.

“Oh yeah, then why don;t you go over there and let her burn you, Why don’t you two date?”

He shakes his head and flashes a disparaging smile.

“What kind of useless life do you lead? And I don;t feel like an idiot, You’re the one who is on a 99 dollar Costco board and you’re telling me about surfing?”

“You’re an idiot. You must not like your life.”

“Actually I like my life and I’m very happy and I’ve done more with mine than you’ve done with yours. You know what, I’m a two time cancer survivor, and the difference between you and me is there was a cure for me.”

He continues to mouth off, shaking his head.

“You hear me, you have nothing on me, I’m not running for office, I don;t need your vote, and you haver nothing on me, You are nothing.”

Later on land, I’m getting out of my wetsuit. The woman/girl has parked behind me and is hiding. I’m amused. It’s a sign of guilt. The guy who was her idiot defender has stopped his truck next to her.

“She smiles and says, “Thanks for helping me.”

He says, ‘Some people.”

She flashes the same stupid smile and says, “I couldn;t believe that was really happening.”

He waves and drives away.

That’s the way these people are, they have to talk to each other to convince themselves they’re right. I thought of two people who drink too much and have a problem, they console themselves that they aren;t a problem or even have one by pointing out others who they believe are worse than them. Only one flaw. I don’t drink at their bar.

I’m thinking. He drove his car by me and didn’t say anything, but stops to bond with her. And when I walked by her car with a Clive James book to read and watch the sunset. I feel great. Cancer has created a bug-zapperr in my chest where people like this never get into my heart. I mean, does Batman get mad when he tells off the Joker?

So when I walk past the girl/women I didn’t look at her and kept walking. She didn’t say anything,. And she didn’t say anything. Again, where’s the mouth now? And me, I felt great. I had a full birthday with a bunch of waves, and some I shared, and I [paddled and watched pelicans, and talked to the General, Odwallah Ken, and my other friends and watched the sunset. I know there are people who say if you go out in a crowd it’s your fault, and I’ve never understood that point, because it still comes down to bad behavior, which isn’t good when there’s no crowd or a crowd, but they use the crowd to make theitr own logic–that’s where they live in a crowded world, maybe that’s why there’s a resentment on someone who can ride the wave of life by themselves.

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