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All About You, huh? A surfer on my board

April 10, 2014

“You’re out there on an eleven foot board, and I thin k I might get the set wave bnut see you, and know I can;t get it,” said this guy.

Now this person weighs 135 pounds soaking wet. He’s an excellent noserider who rides a ten-foot longboard. I weight 224 pounds and I’m 6’1″ and ride an eleven-foot board. He doesn’t see our size comparison to match our equipment. He only sees me in relation to his desire to get waves, as well as what he could do better on waves I get. Not once does he think that maybe because of nerve damage from chemo I have to ride a thicker and wider board.

In reality, I weigh nearly one-hundred pounds more than him and he thinks my board is out of proportion. Well, his board is 10-feet, and by rights, with his weight, he should be on a ine-foot board. He’s the one who is using equipment larger than his frame. Ah denial, a wonderful thing!

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