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How surfing can get you through cancer

June 3, 2013

The best wavers are usually in the shallowest water, which means the best rides are where there is the greatest risk of success or failure. When you have cancer it’s the lowest point in your life, but you have to have the highest belief in yourself to take the drop and turn out of it. And you have to distill all of your essence to take on this dark and overpowering force trying to take you out. You have to stay in the curl of the wave to get the heart of the ride, and that’s the point where the wave can either take you out or you can use its momentum against itself to stay ahead of it as its collapsing energy propels you beyond its reach. You have to do this with the flare and style of your soul. Sometimes, the wave collapses ahead of you, throwing more treatments, chemo, needles, blood draws, CAT scans, and you have to maintain a balance through it, you have to ride who you are, not lose the sense of your drive. You have to trim across this world of the sick to get back to the reform of a healthy life. And even though your fighting this wave for life, there’s always a predator beneath the surface waiting to take you out. So you defy him until the ride ends, knowing you got everything out of that wave.

I have been paddling out and getting waves, trying to restore my strength, every paddle is like I’m climbing up a precipice, trying to reach a summit. Crawling back to get a view of me again.

And on land, we draw on another wave, which connects us through to others, and if anyone tries to take us out, we just make our bottom turn, drive away from their dark force, and howl to the evolution of you.

Tear-stained cheeks of joy heated by a rising dawn beneath out horizons, streaking us past the horizon, or what is a horizon but a borderline to cross?

2 Comments leave one →
  1. Laureen permalink
    June 8, 2013 4:42 pm

    made it through mant sections…got a bug one ahead of me…just glad it wasn’t a close out 🙂

  2. Laureen permalink
    June 8, 2013 4:43 pm

    Jeez…typo much ?????? @many…@big

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