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Disposable surfers on disposable boards at DisPleasure–er, Pleasure Point

January 12, 2012

With the recent motion picture shooting at Pleasure Point about the short life and dumb and avoidable death of Jay Moriarity, a larger crowd of people stumbled onto Pleasure Point. And with the gentrification improvements along the coast, railings and stairways, as well as the armoring of the coast to protect homes that should have never been built that close tot he ocean, there is an increase in people who will come to the beach who usually never come to the beach because it’s more accessible. But in their hearts they’re not beach people. And if the film is released it will most likely do to Pleasure Point what Gidget did to Malibu.

“It’s Tuesday, and it looks like a Saturday at Cowells,” said one surfer looking all the people either walking with their lease-less dogs, or biking too fast and ignoring stop signs, and seeing middle-aged out-of-shape people who have never really played any sport carrying foam boards and paddle out to advanced breaks. I used to hang out there a lot, and the beaches were usually empty and at sunset maybe have a glass of wine. But in the evening the road along the ocean is bumper to bumper, and the air reeks with exhaust fumes.

Okay, so what’s with the disposable surfers and boards? OK, surfboards are no going to a ridiculous price of 1,200 to 1,800. Backing up one of my theories that ironically, surfing is becoming a rich person’s sport. Since most people can’t the current prices of boards and have this whim to take up surfing, they go out and buy a foam board at Costco for $200. And what all these new beginners have in common is none of them has a decent surfboard. Most are just grabbing whatever they can, which means they don’t plan to surf for more than a year or two (Just to say they’re cool) and then leave, which also means they won’t respect the rules because they’re not going to be around long enough to need or want them. They don’t care, it’s about getting what they want, and they want waves and who are you to tell them that you own the ocean or that they’re are rules. There’s an endless procession of them–one time I saw a fat Dad and Mom and their dumpy kids all carrying surfboards and heading to Pleasure Point, like it was a park. They have no redspect or fear of the ocean ort consideration for anyone.

The reason most surfers in Northern California are so miserable about the increase crowds is that they had uncrowded waves now they don’t. Whereas in Southern California, it’s been crowded all the time so very few active surfers remember uncrowded waves. So in Santa Cruz people can’t handle it. They are being overwhelmed by people who work and live in crowds so they see nothing wrong with creating a crowd and playing in one to get what they want; in fact, they thrive in that environment. Create anonymity and you can hide in the crowd and do whatever you want without an accountability.

The only real solution is to just go out in the water, accept it, realize you can’t have what you want. And at least get wet with a paddle. But for myself, I have to say I don;t enjoy being around these people, and I wouldn’t want to hang out with them in any other environment either. But in surfing, you have to deal with them, you’re forced to–either they’re in your way, dropping in on you, or nearly running you over. And one day, before I was going to go into the Stanford Cancer Center for tumor treatment, I was going to paddle out just to be strong to face my battle with the Big C, and I felt there was nothing positive to being in the water with these people. It takes energy to ignore what you don’t like, and I just walked away and went to a golf course and hit some putts.

 

 

 

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One Comment leave one →
  1. January 12, 2012 11:13 pm

    Not a bad idea with the golf… Its hard to avoid crowds now… unless you have a boat… I just try to remain match-fit for the serious days – no crowds then (at least not around here) and you’re also sharing waves with a better class of human…

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