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Paddling out to the Light: Part 2

December 20, 2011

Returned from down South with a longboard shaped by Dave Anderson in Goleta. Surf wasn;t happening. But I haven’t gotten in new board in 20 years, and coming back with thew new board felt like I was getting a piece of me back. My weapon to wield to get strong to take out The Big C with The Big Sea of Love.

So I hope to wax it up tomorrow and paddle out. And I will surf until I’m exhausted and when I come home a nearly frozen Heinken beer back at home!

Flip that tumor out with the spatula of me like the kook it is.

One over easy tumor getting nervous. One Fred cutting back and ready trim across it. Go to make this section to The Light.

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